MOROCCO – JEBEL / TOUKBAL -THE HIGH ATLAS

Morocco is said to be like a desert palm rooted in Africa, watered by Islam and fanned by the breezes from Europe.  Its sheer mystery has acted as a lure to travellers for centuries.

The lifestyle is anarchic but addictive, influenced by Spain as well as Mali, Mauritania, the Sudan and France.  The scenery and architecture are spellbinding.

This trip provides the opportunity to experience the best of contrasts between teeming, noisy, wonderful Marrakesh and the solitude and magic of the High Atlas.  Our bonus, which is optional, is to hike to the very summit of North Africa – Jebal Toubkal at just under 14,000 ft.

In 2011 Dig will again lead with Moha in the high mountains where both have topped Toubkal many times and Ismael with his wealth of knowledge in Marrakesh.

We meet in fabled Marrakesh.  Once drawing camel caravans from the south the oasis city became a jewel beneath the distant towering peaks of the High Atlas to the East and the Sahara to the West:  We spend two nights here in a delightful Riad.  Riads are beautifully restored guest houses that combine the best  of Moroccan and French style and, unlike hotels, are a wonderful  experience that stays in the memory.  We shall discover the Djemaa el-Fna by night where Africa and the Arab world come together in a glorious explosion of light, colour and noise.  We will discover the heart of this amazing desert city before we leave it’s throbbing avenues for the peace and serenity of the High Atlas.      

Hiking trails that climb, twist and turn through this rugged land of the Berber will allow us to acclimate before we start the trek upwards towards our ultimate goal – Jebal Toubkal at just under 14,000 ft.  During our adventure we will stay in comfortable Berber guest houses (Some even offering Turkish Baths - Hamam), Refuge and Auberge – note the French influence !  On trek all equipment and food is carried by mules and we travel with our own cook at all times this ensuring delicious  meals that are hygienically  prepared  - we have never suffered sickness in the Atlas !

The ascent of Toubkal itself is optional as a very early start means we return to the Refuge for late lunch.  This means those who are unsure of making the ascent can still enjoy the expedition while enjoying this period enjoying a hike from the refuge, or simply resting and watching out for summiteers.

We have timed the trip so that we should avoid the extreme heat of summer but winter snows at altitude should be confined to north facing gullies.

This is essentially a holiday that offers two great opportunities.  Firstly to hike in a dramatic and lesser known mountain range that is a complete contrast in landscape and culture.  Secondly to experience a little of both Arab and Berber culture– the actual assent of Toubkal is a bonus !

ITINERARY    

DAY 1
We meet in Marrakesh for transfer to the Old Quarter and our Riad.  Depending on your arrival time dinner can be arranged. 

DAY 2
With the aid of Ismael we explore Marrakesh.  From our Riad which is perfectly located in the old quarter we are within walking distance of  the Djema el-Fna where beats the heart of Africa as jugglers, snake charmers, soothsayers and acrobats bring life to the city.  We will see some of the most beautiful and historic Arab architecture in North Africa.  Our Welcome Dinner will be an Arab feast on the rooftop of the Riad Sherezade.  

DAY 3
We journey for 2 hours up into the mountains, the Ourika Valley and   Oukaimden – Africa’s highest ski resort where lifts rise to 10,650 ft.  After lunch we will enjoy a short hike to stretch legs in readiness for days to come.
Our accommodation here is a mountain refuge with comfortable bunk beds, showers and of course our cook will be on hand to provide an excellent dinner.  

DAY 4
Our hiking starts in earnest.  After breakfast our bags will be loaded onto mules that go ahead with our cook.  Our route follows a steadily ascending mule track that takes to the Tize n’ou Addi Passs at 9,606 ft.  Cook will be ready with lunch prepared at a suitable location depending on our progress.
Later we make a steep decent to our home for the night – the Tachidirt Refuge (Showers and clean comfortable mattress). 
This will be an easy day to break us in gently with just 6 miles and 1,200 ft ascent

DAY 5
Following our mules and carrying only day packs we hike down through orchards and terraced fields to the villages of Ouanesekra and Tamguist  where cook will have prepared lunch.  Later a twisting mule track leads to the Tisi n’ Tamarert Pass from where we gaze down through pine forests to the Mizana Valley and our new home of Aroumd.  This hike is 5 miles with 1,550ft ascent.  We stay at the delightful hill top Auberge which nestles under the satellite peaks of Toubkal.  It was here that Martin Scorsese chose to film “Kundun” believing correctly that it was an excellent double for the Himalaya.
The Auberge has hot showers, double rooms and nearby is the village Turkish Bath !

DAY 6
This is a day of choices:  Take pictures, tend to washing, explore the village and sip coffee or join Dig and Moha to ascend one of the nearby peaks.  The choice of summit will depend on several factors such as energy level and weather.  Typically the could mean 5 miles hiking with 3,500ft ascent

DAY 7
Having had time to acclimate we will trek to the Refuge Toubkal at 10,520ft.by use of the track used by pilgrims to an Islamic shrine.  Here cook will have lunch ready before we take the mule track to the refuge.  Our route twists and climbs with rugged peaks to the left and right but our effort will be rewarded by the seller of fresh orange juice who waits in the knowledge that we cannot resist such luxury here in the high mountains though I doubt his mules notice the scenery when under heavy sacks of fruit !  At the refuge cook will be waiting with tea and biscuits before we shower and relax before dinner.
This day is 5 miles with 4,000ft ascent 

DAY 8
For those who wish this is summit day.  We leave the refuge at 5.30 am
To allow time for ascent and views from the summit before pattern of afternoon fog closes in to envelope the summit.  At 13,670 ft Toubkal is the highest summit in North Africa and may yet hold some snow at this time – it always seems bizarre to be in snow looking out towards the Sahara !  This is a challenging day with 7 ½ miles and just over 3,000ft ascent but on rough ground and at altitude.
A late lunch will be ready when we return to the refuge.  Those not wishing to top out on Toubkal can non the less have a great day high level hiking from the refuge.  Second night at the refuge.

DAY 9
A gently ascending mule track will lead us to a high col where we stop.  From here dramatic views of Toubkal fill the skyline to the east, while to the west the horizon shimmers as mountains give way to hills, hills to desert and desert to Marrakesh 100 miles away.  We drop down past the Cascade d’Irhoulidene and so to the Refuge Tamsoult where fresh tea will be waiting for us.  The refuge has small rooms, clean comfortable mattress and a private Turkish bath which is best before cook prepares dinner.  The days hike is only 5 ½ miles but has 1,600 ft ascent and 4,250ft descent.

DAY 10
This day we descend to Imlil – one of the main bases for Atlas trekking.  The little mountain town has a mixture of bazaars and shops for travellers such as ourselves as well as catering for the locals.  We return to our hill top Auberge (Day 5) to relax or explore Imlil before cook presents our final mountain dinner.

DAY 11
Following breakfast we walk down to the town centre to say farewell to cook, muleteers and mules before our two hour drive down the mountain and to Marrakesh.  En route we will stop to visit a cultural centre that provides work for local women.  On return to Marrakesh and our Riad there will be time to shop or, as I often do, sip tea on the terrace of Café Atlas and watch the world and its donkeys go by !  Our Farewell ell Dinner will be on the rooftop of our Riad where we may even sip a glass of wine while listening to the evening call to prayer.    

DAY 12
Sadly all good things must come to an end.  .At appropriate times for flights home transport is provided

TOUR PRICE:   $3,200 sharing a twin/Double room in Marrakesh.  Single supplement $250 if single rooms are available at Marrakesh.  Cost includes all meals, entries etc – there are no further costs other than drinks and a tip for Moroccan trekking staff is customary.  

GROUP SIZE: Restricted to 10 plus Dig (Certified International Mountain Leader) and Moha (Certified Moroccan Mountain Guide)

TRANSPORT:  Air conditioned mini bus or 4 x 4

ACCOMMODATIONS: 
3 nights in charming Riad (Marrakesh)
8 nights on trek in Alpine Refuge, comfortable Auberge and Berber homes.