SYRIA - CRADLE OF CIVILIZATION

Syria has, until quite recently, been one of the less visited countries of the world. Now however things are changing and Syria will come to you as quite a surprise.  OK, its not a land for tourists in the broad sense but is certainly a land for travellers.  Syria’s profile internationally still suffers from her past but for those who can see beyond her recent history and allow the people, culture, history and landscape to welcome you there is no disappointment.  

Syria is a land for those who are curious, have an interest in history and seek the road less travelled.  There are no discos, beach resorts as we know them or crowded “must see” attractions but, if one listens carefully, the faint footsteps can almost be heard of Romans, Crusaders, Saladin, The Ottomans, Churchill and T.E.Lawrence.

Damascus, we are told, is the oldest continually inhabited city on earth – 5,000 years.  To stroll the streets of old Damascus is a unique experience. Pass through ancient gates into the old quarter and stroll along Straight Street first mentioned in the Bible (Acts 9:11) and discover an Arab city of the Middle Ages.  The city’s museum contains the world’s first recorded alphabet and a second museum has the worlds first recorded musical notation.   At the Dura Europos synagogue there are stunning wall paintings almost 2,000 years old – though of course Syria is predominantly Muslim it may be a surprise to discover that this is a place where Muslim and Christian live and work together in harmony. – indeed 10% of Damascans are Christian. Another surprise is that non Muslim’s may enter the stunning Umayyad Mosque.  The mosque itself was built in AD708 but the site was originally the Roman Temple of Jupiter

Our journey will take us by the enchanting Chistian village of Maloula where the cool mountain air will refresh after hectic Damascus.  Maloula is the last community on earth to speak Aramaic, the language of Christ, and so we will visit the Monastery to hear prayers.  The convent and church of Saint Serge, perched above the village at almost 5,000 feet, date from the early 4^th century.  After taking in the panorama and coffee we continue to what was described by “Lawrence of Arabia” quite simply as the greatest castle on earth – Le Krac des Chevaliers.

Our journey will take us by Latakia and Ugarit, to Hama on the Orontes with her ancient Norias (Water-wheels).  The Dead Cities of the Byzantines, Roman Apamea, Qualat Samaan and so to Aleppo.  In this intriguing city we stay in the old Armenian quarter in delightful Ottoman Houses from where we can explore the Citadel, Souk and take tea at the famous Barons Hotel where the bar bill of T.E. Lawrence remains unpaid !

We journey on to the Roman/Byzantine city of Resafa which now stands in complete abandonment in the wilderness of the eastern desert.  By evening we reach perhaps the greatest Roman city remaining today for exploration – the Oasis city of Palmyra.

Two nights will allow us to explore the city, Arab Castle and beautiful landscape before we depart for Damascus.

Your chief guide will be Dig Bulmer who many of you have travelled with on past adventures.  Dig will be assisted by Saad Kaiali, a friend and official Syrian guide who has been introducing visitors to Syria for more than twenty years.

DAY 1
Arrive Damascus Airport where Saad Kaiali and I will waiting to welcome you. Saad will have our group visa which will ease formalities. A half hour drive to the centre of Damascus will bring us to the Hotel Afamia.  The hotel has been selected for its location which is perfect for exploration of the old city.  Afamia bedrooms have all modern facilities (TV, fridge, telephone) and private bathrooms however the hotel is plain and unpretentious.  After settling in there will be a briefing and our Welcome Dinner.

DAY 2
Damascus claims to be the oldest continually inhabited city on earth and was first cited in Egyptian and Mesopotamian sources in the 2^nd millennium BC.  It is a fascinating city that seems to grudgingly make room for modernity and a population over six million. When viewing the city from a distant hilltop Mohammed was asked why he did not enter the city to which he replied “A man may not twice go into Paradise”.  Today Damascus is not Paradise but it certainly fascinates!  
We will explore the Omoyad Mosque, the Tomb of Saladin, Straight Street (The only street mentioned in the Bible), the famous souk and museum. Second night in the Hotel Afamia.

DAY 3
An hours drive takes us from the great city to the fresh, high hill country of the Anti-Lebanon mountains.  Here we discover the enchanting and surprising village of Maalula whose inhabitants still speak Aramaic – the language of Jesus !We will visit the Monastery of Our Lady of Seidnaya and walk down the narrow gorge that, legend has it, allowed Saint Tecla to escape Roman persecution.  Later we take lunch with fabulous views over the Orontes Valley before exploring what has been called the most fabulous castle in the world – Krac des Chevaliers.  We overnight at Latakia where our hotel may be described as functional.  Later we join Saad for a Syrian dinner at a favourite restaurant in Latakia.

DAY 4
On the outskirts of Latakia lies Ugarit.  The name first appears around 2400 BC in the texts of Elba (Byzantine dead city).  French archaeologists discovered the site in the 1930’s and found texts that suggest that “Ugarithic” is the oldest known alphabet.  Following our explorations we drive to the Castle of Saladin.  The setting is dramatic as the castle is perched high above a deep gorge.  Though now named for Saladin the first defences here were built by the Byzantines however the Crusaders were largely responsible for the massive structure we see today.
Later we move to the Roman city of Apamea .  The city came to me as a wonderful surprise as the metropolis stands in isolation on a hilltop without disturbance from the modern world. As one wanders the avenues in the evening light the imagination is free to fill in the gaps.  Our home for the night will be Hama where we will see the amazing medieval water wheels for which Hama is famed before settling in at our accommodation – Orient House.  Orient House is a delightfully restored house dating from the 18^th century and is one of the most important historic houses in Hama.  Today the house provides modern comfort while retaining it’s Ottoman style and atmosphere – quite charming.

DAY 5
Our first destinations are the “Dead Cities” of Bara and Serjilla.  Built during the first century the cities were Byzantine but later abandoned after the Arab conquest and today remain surprisingly intact.  The area is quite lovely with gentle ochre coloured hills covered with olive trees – a fine spot for our picnic lunch.  Later we travel to Qualat Samaan where in the 5^th century Saint Simeon spent 36 years preaching to the masses below his pillar which in turn gave rise to the Stylite phenomenon which lasted through the 12^th century.  In the 5^th century a church was built on the site which looks out over the plains to distant Turkish peaks.  Later we drive to Aleppo and our home for three nights – Dallal House.
Dallal House was built as a church in 1826 and later converted into an Ottoman courtyard house.  Thirteen bedrooms (Including one in a cosy cave) are clustered around the courtyard where lemon trees grow and you will find an ancient gramophone with a 78 recording of the Scots Guards who will never again be heard – the record is cracked!   The house is located in the charming old Armenian quarter of Aleppo.

DAY 6
Saad will introduce us to Aleppo.  For myself Aleppo is the most interesting of all Arab cities with a history and architecture unmatched by any other than Damascus however this is a city that can be explored on foot.  The great Citadel, the souk, (Biggest and best in the Middle East), the mosque all await our discovery.  In the evening a wander over to the now rather decrepit old Barons Hotel is a must. It was here that Agatha Christie wrote “Orient Express” and Churchill stayed while deciding the political fate of this land.  Barons was home to T.E. Lawrence for more than a year while he worked at Karkamish, indeed you can see his unpaid bill in the drawing room.  A brief tour of the bedrooms is sometimes possible and anyway the beer is good!  Second night at Dallal House.

DAY 7
Aleppo is worth another day but how to spend it ?  Some will wish to sip coffee overlooking the city from the Citadel ramparts, others explore the souk for bargins and some even relax for the day – this is a free day for you to choose as you wish.  You are free for both lunch and dinner.  Third night at Dallal House.

DAY 8
We travel south east into the eastern desert and so to Palmyra.  This town of 50,000 people owes its existence to the oasis that is a rich green tapestry of palm and olive trees in an otherwise starkly beautiful wilderness.  Two millennia ago the oasis stretched almost to Damascus and so the great Roman city of Palmyra was able to boast a population of almost half a million.  The sheer scale of what remains today, in remarkably good condition thanks largely to lack of humidity and pollution, is breathtaking and requires two days of exploration.  Palmyra is also the largest Greek necropolis in the entire Greek, and Roman world.  Perched high on its rocky mountain top, overlooking the entire region is Qualaat Ibn Maan – The Arab Castle.

Our hotel in Palmyra is the Zenobia, aptly named as the hotel stands about 45 seconds walk from the site of the palace of Queen Zenonia.  The hotel, though modern, is quite charming with bedrooms located down a short, twisting garden lane.  Breakfast on the patio watching the changing morning light spill over Roman Palmyra is a delight.

DAY 9
Second day exploring the ruins, tombs and castle.  In the evening Palmyra is a stroll of about 10 minutes away and very charming with a laid back attitude to life – a country town.  Second night at the Zenobia Hotel.

DAY 10
We return to Damascus by the eastern desert road and the famous Baghdad Café for morning coffee.  Our return to Afamia Hotel will be in time for you to spend the afternoon as you wish – you are free for lunch however later we meet for our special Farewell Dinner.  Night at Afamia Hotel.

DAY 11
Departure for airport and home

Accommodations
Unlike Jordan, Syria has been blessed with some very lovely Ottoman houses that have become charming guest houses (not unlike the riads of Morocco) and it is in these that we stay when in Hama and Aleppo. In Damascus we are in a clean, comfortable but rather utilitarian hotel that has the advantage of being perfectly located for our needs.  In Latakia we have a night in a modern hotel which enjoys a private beach and, like most modern hotels, meets our needs but leaves no memory.  In Palmyra we stay at the lovely Zenobia hotel which is located on the very edge of the oasis and the Roman city itself – breakfast on the terrace is a delight.
(All accommodations have private facilities)

Transport is by comfortable, air conditioned bus

Maximum group size will be 12 + guides 

Tour Price per person based on  sharing double/twin $3,355.00; Single occupancy $3,760.00

Cost includes:  All guide fees including end of trip tips for Syrian staff.   Accommodation for 10 nights, local transport by private, air conditioned bus. All entrance fees.  All meals other than 2 lunches and 1 dinner (Breakfasts in the Arab world are continental).  We will have obtained a group Visa without extra cost to you.

Not included in above price: Flight to/from Damascus; Insurance; 2 lunches and 1 dinner + drinks

Though you will have almost nothing to pay for we advise that on arrival at Damascus airport ATM you obtain some Syrian currency.  Major credit cards are widely accepted.

A FINAL WORD:  Most travellers these days ask one question above all others:
“Is it safe”.  When in doubt one should first visit the State Department web site after which you may wish to check with Dig at Dig50@hotmail.com